Olēnich Spring-Summer 2023 collection is a celebration of origin. While the narrative of the brand’s FW22 collection was built around homesickness and long-awaited homecoming, the SS23 collection reflects the relief of arrival.
The main character of Olēnich collections – nomad woman – nests in her homeland, collecting fragments of her memories about it, trying to hunt out the forgotten feeling of belonging. With that in mind designer Yana Olenich refers to the traditional Ukrainian symbols, stringing them like the beads of a necklace and interweaving familiar and unfamiliar.
The latter is most expressed in the SS23 fabrics choice and its combinations. The designer bases the collection on the contrast of light and heavy, intimate and protective and develops combined garments, such as the trench coat with a silk waist piece or fully patchworked garments made of faux suede, eco-leather and cotton.
Ukrainians are deeply connected to earth and every herb and flower has a special meaning to them, therefore Olēnich looks for inspiration in a traditional circlet of flowers and presents styles with hand embroidered herbs, such as a snowdrop, which is called a flower of hope in Ukraine or achillea, which stands for strength and independence. Ukrainian embroidery from the Poltava region acts as another reminder of origin in the collection and is presented in classical shirt styles in monochrome variations.
Handicraft has a special meaning for the designer this season. Yana Olenich considers it to be a high act of intimacy and weaves it into the collection in various details, such as handmade ceramic buttons, hand stitches and raw edges on the classical tailored garments. This intimate touch is also reflected in the collection’s soft and natural color scheme. The shades of baked milk, melted butter, raw linen and clay brings the nostalgic feeling to the collection, while the only dark color in it – black – acts as an anchor.
Being at home means being on your own land and the Olenich Spring-Summer 2023 collection is a story about dedication to a place called motherland, the only place to be your real self.